It’s a keeper! However, it appears two hose clamps they use on each end of the one NON-reinforced rubber line are a thin (VERY thin!) wire and I don’t see how those thin wire clamps won’t eventually slice right through that soft rubber - especially if there is any vibration or movement (I.e., riding around in the bed of a pickup or something).
AND ^those^ same hoses are running above the carburetor, etc, (not sure if fuel or, other, lines).
Strange thing is it is plain to see they used ”normal” “wide” metal band type clamps on reinforced hoses elsewhere.
To say the least, “Interesting.“
Think I’ll source some of those rubber hoses, just to have some lengths as fuel line backup and I may not wait to replace those “razor garrote” type clamps with some normal, wider, “band” -type clamps.
LOL, I ran the genny for 5-hours to break in as recommended (with varying loads) … TWO AND A HALF HOURS after the display said, ”On Empty” … and it’s STILL running! Granted, there’s nothing plugged into the generator but, went past 120 mins still running after “Fuel Tank Empty” indicator came on!
When prepping the genny for Long Term Storage, Its the spark plug location that makes things interesting:
When taking the plug out you will notice the spark plug access hole in the top of the chassis is NOT centered over the plug and you will notice the provided spark plug tube (you really can’t call it a true socket or, even a wrench) is actually “crooked” to the spark plug, that is, NOT ALIGNED a with the plug, as you’re rotating the plug out.
You can use the el cheapo 13/16” “Pakistani” plug wrench to take the spark plug out but, DO NOT TRY AND USE THAT PIECE OF TIN SCRAP TO TRY AND PUT YOUR SPARK PLUG BACK IN!!!!! More than likely doing so - you’ll wind up stripping the threads in the top of the engine and game over.
Instead, use a 3” length of fuel hose pushed over the top of the plug (ceramic end) to gingerly turn the plug backwards (reverse, as if you were taking it out again) until you feel (and perhaps hear) that little “snick” that tells you the male threads on the plug have “dropped into” and are aligned with the female threads inside the top of the engine.
^That^ worked like a charm after I dabbed a pin prick of anti-seize on the plug threads and then I slabbed a little Dialectric Grease around the outside of the rubber boot before snapping the boot back atop the spark.
All in all this is a fine little gennie for the price - perfect for powering tools to build a cabin off grid or, in my case, allow the wife to stream on her iPad with a fan for the dog and lots of lights etc and even allow us utilization of our 110 powered Rinnai water heater system.
The display panel is a great help (I usually have to install an hour meter on our generators to keep track of Preventative Maintenance) as is the fact they provide an effective funnel for oil fillings.
The one thing I gotta ding ‘em on are those two “razor wire” rings they use as clamps around the soft rubber hose above the carburetor - they‘re gonna cause problems eventually, fer sure!